rasuras são tentativas, e na marginalidade há margem para muitos erros.

Friday, September 14, 2012

Já! (it sounds: "Yaw!")

Ísland...

Já (yaw = yes)! Because here everything is wonderfully positive. People keep using this word, even if they are not answering to any question, just as an interjection. Já (yaw), because I have been feeling this positive mood everywhere, in everyone and everything. Já (yaw), because this is the way. Já (yaw) to life in Iceland!

I am becoming a cow. The smell already stays in my skin, I spend most of my working time in the "cow house" (as we call it), the bulls like me, better, they lick me, I enjoy being outside with the fresh air (although I don't eat grass).

My feet stepped on this land some days ago, but as everything is new and I'm dissolving so much in the happenings, the places, the landscape, the people, the tasks... it feels as if these days have turned into something like a month, in a good sense.

Johanna and Tryggvi are the friendly couple of farmers that run Ártún. They have many children but they are grown ups and all live by themselves, with their families, except for the younger one, who is 19 and also lives away from the farm to study. They all left at the age of 16, that's how it works. Johanna believes that, although it's a bit hard to experience this separation so early, it is the best for the youngsters.

The house is always full of joy, with people visiting. Neighbours, people passing by, family visiting over the weekend (it's the case now, one of their daughters is here with her children and some friends. It's so lively! Güdmunduru is 2 years old and he's sweet babbling is coming to my ears right now; such a sweet child). (I started writing this post when the visitors where the ones mentioned above; by now, more people arrived for the weekend, the younger daughter, Sigurdis, and her boyfriend).

In Reykjavik I was hosted in a guest-house owned by Thorey and Haldor. Very cosy, with a warm and friendly environment. Thorey welcomed me in such a kind way; I'm sure we will meet again.
At Ninukot's office I spent a long morning with Svanborg and Bjarney taking care of all the bureaucracy that is needed to work in Iceland for an extended period (hopefully, soon I will become a citizen of Iceland).

A storm has started as soon as my plane has landed in this island. Luckily it waited for the landing; one instant after, the wind started blowing strong and it didn't stop until the second morning. By strong wind I mean such that would blow Portugal away in pieces. That was the though that was popping in my head: where I come from wouldn't resist to that storm.
But it was only wind. No rain, no snow. At least in the south, where Reykjavik is. Up north everything became covered in white during the night.
My departure to the farm was postponed one day because of the weather, which gave me time to walk around Reykjavik. The wind was not going to stop me (even if in some moments I felt as if I was almost still, when trying to walk against the wind - great choice in the boots that I got to come here!; but when the wind was in favour it compensated).

Reykjavik is a small, picturesque capital, colourful, easy to walk, cosy, beautiful.
I walked for three  hours without realizing (only in the last moments I was wishing to get to the guest-house soon, as I was getting tired of walking in the wind). I saw the Hallgrimskirkja Church, Harpa Concert Hall,
Reykjavikurhöfn (the port), an interesting hidden square with street art and other squares and streets in the city centre.

Myth I: It is easy to meet Björk in Iceland.
Myth not busted! With the storm, came along Björk. After so many people teasing me about meeting Björk during my stay: 5 minutes after landing, there she was, black skirt, white jacket, headphones and red sunglasses, picking her luggage, probably arriving in the flight from New York.

Besides the cow work, and other minor tasks, I have been picking potatoes. First day, picking potatoes in the snow. Second day, picking potatoes after rain. Third day, picking potatoes in the rain. And in all the times I enjoyed being on the ground, doing this simple action, while embraced by the wonderful mountains around. We will have potatoes for the Winter, for sure.

Myth II: there are no trees in Iceland.
Myth busted! Most of them were planted. This is actually an environmental concern about Iceland; with time, mankind had a negative influence on the forests of Iceland and they disappeared soon. Nowadays, this results in soil erosion and abandonment of some lands/farms. With this concern came the reforestation, which is being held in order to compensate the losses from the past. So, there are trees in Iceland. There is a nice tree spot just behind the house.

I have tried Súrmjolk (sour milk) and Skýr, and there is a great chance that they will become two of my favourite products of Iceland.

There are 22 milking cows, all of them with a name. Day by day I try to learn, but the fact that most of the names sound quite different to me makes it a bigger challenge. There are 7 calves, small and cute. And the bulls, those that lick me... But I shouldn't get to affective with them, after all, soon they will go to the slaughterhouse. It is as it is. At home, they eat mostly the meat from the bulls that they raise, and distribute it over the family. There are 13 other bulls running around in the mountain, together with the sheep.

Busla (Bushla), Táta (Tauta) and Snati (Shnati) are the lively three dogs that are always there, no matter what I am doing (except in the bedroom). They follow everywhere during the work, and they are so friendly that it even seems that they talk to us while we do the job. At home, Táta and Snati stay under the kitchen table, always ready to be pet. Busla is the shepherd dog and the youngest, so he happily stays outside.

It seems that it's always a good time for coffee and tea time. Every break there are hot drinks on the table, together with some cookies, bread, cheese and fruits. With these moments, come the conversations. Most of them in Icelandic, that so far I'm not able to follow, but word by word I am willing to learn.

Each day we've had different atmospheric conditions. There is no way to get bored with this! Snow (that is gone by now), sun, rain, fog. The Winter is announcing the will to arrive earlier than usual here, but so far, it didn't come to stay.
The hours of light really change incredibly, compared to South Western Europe. Although when talking to Johanna about this she didn't realize how different it can be for me, and replied that the change is not obviously noticeable.

Feeding the cows is the one thing I am struggling with. While rolling in the hay it might seem that I am playing around with it, it might even look like I'm clowning. The truth is, the cows and bulls are hungry and I want to satisfy their hunger. But I have to gain experience with this, because I feel like a fool trying to do it. First I have to cut the hay with a funny machine, then I have to handle the fork (I don't know which is more strange, the machine or the fork work) and then take the hay to the animals. Anyway, I have fun in the process.
I also clean the stable, prepare the cows to be milked, clean the milk tank, help to put the cows outside in the morning and getting them in by the end of the day. Generally, this is the cow house work. (in further posts, maybe I will elaborate about it).

Tryggvi, the farmer with rough hands from the work, always covered with hay and cow shit, plays the piano!
Johanna knits.

The radio is always on, from the first moment in the morning (7am) to the last in the evening (whenever everyone is going to sleep).

Bless! (in Icelandic)


2 comments:

  1. Minha querida,

    Tenho seguido os teus pequenos passos por aí e estou feliz por sentir-te bem e entusiasmada!Não deixes de partilhar essa linda experiência!
    Eu estarei sempre por perto!beijo*

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    1. Minha querida,
      obrigada pelas tuas palavras. É muito bom sentir-me acompanhada, mesmo com oceanos entre nós. Vou actualizando o blog sempre que posso. E fico a aguardar notícias tuas! (que em breve deves te-las bem fresquinhas e cheias de estórias para contar:)
      Abraço, até já

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